和助Wasuke
Photo: mina
“Wasuke” is a branch of the dried fish shop, “Okuwa,” which was established in the first year of the Meiji Period. Like its parent shop, Wasuke also offers all-natural dried fish or himono「和助」は無添加の美味しい干物の製法にこだわり続ける、明治初年創業の干物屋「奥和」のアンテナショップだ。天井が吹き抜けのリビングルームのような空間で、沖縄の真塩を使い備長炭でじっくりと焼き上げたばかりの干物が食べられる。
工場の近くに狩野川の河口があり、すぐ駿河湾なので30～40メートル掘ると海水がさしている層があるのだという。その地下から湧き出た海水の井戸水で、国内産の旬の魚の血合いを丁寧に洗い取り除く干物の製法は、真水で洗う通常の製法に比べ、魚の鮮度を最大限に保ちながら、自然の旨味を引き出せるようになるという。天然の沖縄の真塩は、にがりが非常にまろやかで、干物ととても相性がいいのだそうだ。真水で洗うとぱさつきがちな魚の身も、海水で洗うことでふんわり、ふっくら。そして、風と秋から春先にかけての直射日光が一番天日干しに適しているため、それに近い涼しい風の温度設定で乾かすことにこだわっている。こちらでは天日干しに近い温度設定でじっくりと乾かすことで天日干しに近い旨味成分が凝縮され、味わい深い干物ができ上がるそうだ。
そんな干物をお好みの定食スタイルで提供し始めたのは2003年。テーブル席での食事メニューは定食の基本セットとおにぎりセットの２種類のみ。定食セットは胚芽米、中鉢、小鉢、汁物、おしんこの基本セット700円に、セレクトするお好みの干物代が別途加算される。おにぎりセットは胚芽米のおにぎりが２つに汁物、おしんこ、やはりお好みの干物代が加算されるシステムだ。
店内は木を多用し、柱と梁は金物を使わない伝統工法で組み合わせた設計方針の建築家・高橋修一氏（住まい塾）による設計デザイン。階段の手すりや照明など一部の素材にはアイアンによるデザインを施し、木の温もりが温かい雰囲気を醸しだす一方で、どこかモダンな印象。入り口を入った左手にお寿司やケーキ屋のショーケースをイメージしてつくったという曲線のガラスショーケースがあり、旬の魚の干物やみりん干しなどがお土産として購入できる。週末などは混雑するので、事前に予約してから出掛けたい。
和助
住所：静岡県沼津市下河原51-2
営業時間：9:00〜18:00 / ランチタイム 11:30〜14:00 / ティータイム 14:00〜17:00
定休日：日曜日
TEL：055-962-0756
http://www.wa-suke.co.jp
Text and photo: mina. In Wasuke’s open living room-like space with its high ceiling, diners can relish himono grilled on bincho charcoal and seasoned with mashio salt from Okinawa.
Close to the himono factory is the mouth of Kano River. Due to its proximity to Suruga Bay, salt water begins to rise after digging 30 to 40 meters in this area. Washing off the dark red flesh of seasonal domestic fish with ocean water that wells from underground, helps maintain the fish’s freshness. This process is said to draw out the natural flavors of the fish. The bittern in the Okinawan mashio salt is very mild, and complements the himono as well. The fish meat, which is prone to drying out when washed with fresh water, remains tender and plump when salt water is used. Since wind and direct sunlight in autumn and early spring are ideal conditions for drying out himono, Wasuke ensures that the fish is dried with such cool winds and temperature setting. The fish transforms into very tasty himono in conditions very similar to the desiccation process under direct sunlight.
In 2003, Wasuke began serving its himono with 2 set menus; they offer set meals and onigiri sets. The set meals come with haiga rice (rice retaining its rice germ), 2 side dishes, soup, and oshinko pickles for 700 yen. Diners get to choose a himono, and the price of the chosen fish is added to this basic menu fee. The himono price is added to the onigiri set as well, which comes with 2 haiga rice balls, soup, and oshinko pickles.
Wood is prominent in the interior of the shop. Architect Shuichi Takahashi (Sumai Jyuku) used his design principles for this structure by relying on a traditional method of construction, in which pillars and beams are built together without using any metal. The warmth from the wooden interior radiates from the room, but iron was utilized for the staircase handrails and the lighting, which gives the space a modern vibe. On the left-hand side of the entrance, there is a glass case similar to those in bakeries and sushi restaurants. In this case, seasonal himono and mirinboshi—marinated and sun-dried fish—are available for purchase. Weekends are very busy for Wasuke, so reservations are recommended before heading to the himono shop.
Wasuke
Address: 51-2 Shimokawara, Numazu, Shizuoka
Opening Hours: 11:30-14:00 (Lunch) / 14:00-17:00 (Tea)
Closed on Sunday
Tel: 055-962-0756
http://www.wa-suke.co.jp
Text and photo: mina
Translation: Makiko Arima和助
住所：静冈県沼津市下河原51-2
开放时间：销售 9:00-18:00 / 午餐 11:30-14:00 / 茶 14:00-17:00
定休日：星期日
电话：055-962-0756
http://www.wa-suke.co.jp
